FAQs

Find answers to common questions about philodendrons, alocasias, and plant care.

Light Related

Full-spectrum LED lights with a color temperature of 5000-6500K are your best bet. They closely mimic the natural light spectrum your rainforest plants crave.

Keep a close eye on those leaves! Yellowing leaves often mean your plant isn’t getting enough light, while bleached spots or faded color are signs of too much direct sunlight.

Yes, especially during the winter months when natural light is less intense. Consider adding a grow light or moving your plants closer to a window.

East or west-facing windows are generally great for bright, indirect light. South-facing windows can be too intense, but you can filter the light with a sheer curtain.

Absolutely! Just make sure you invest in full-spectrum LED grow lights that provide the right intensity and spectrum for your specific plants.

Humidity Related

Tropicals love humidity levels between 60-80%. You can achieve this with a humidifier, pebble trays filled with water, or by grouping plants together.

For smaller spaces, ultrasonic cool-mist humidifiers are a great choice. They’re quiet and effective at raising humidity levels.

Yes! Mist your plants regularly, group them together (they create their own microclimate), and place them near a water source like a sink or shower.

Keep an eye out for brown leaf tips, crispy edges, and slower growth. These are classic signs your plants need a humidity boost.

Some tougher varieties like certain Philodendrons (e.g., Brasil, Micans), ZZ plants, and Snake plants can tolerate lower humidity better than others.

Fertilizers Related

A balanced liquid fertilizer (like 10-10-10) diluted to half-strength is a great all-purpose choice for most tropicals.

During the growing season (spring and summer), fertilize every 2-4 weeks. In the winter, cut back to once a month or stop altogether.

You bet! Compost tea, worm castings, and fish emulsion are all fantastic organic options that your plants will love.

Yellowing leaves can indicate a nutrient deficiency, while brown tips might mean you’re overdoing it with the fertilizer.

If you’re hoping for blooms, try a phosphorus-rich bloom booster fertilizer. Just be sure to use it sparingly, as too much phosphorus can be harmful.

Philodendrons & Alocasias Related

Atabapoense has deeper leaf lobes and Billietiae has orange petioles. Care-wise, they’re similar, but Atabapoense might need a bit more humidity.

Yellow leaves on your Alocasia could be due to overwatering, low humidity, or cold drafts. Adjust your care routine accordingly – try watering less, increasing humidity, and protecting your plant from drafts.

Moss poles are the most natural choice, as they mimic the trees Philodendrons climb in the wild. Trellises also work well, offering plenty of vertical support.

For Philodendrons, take stem cuttings with nodes and root them in water or soil. Alocasias can be divided when you repot them, creating new plants from the offsets.

Philodendron Brasil, Micans, Heartleaf, and Alocasia Polly or Amazonica are great for beginners due to their resilience and adaptability.

Pests & Diseases Related

Regular inspection is key! Look for tiny webs (spider mites) or cottony masses (mealybugs). Treat infestations with neem oil or insecticidal soap, and isolate affected plants.

Mushy stems, yellow leaves, and a foul odor are red flags for root rot. If you catch it early, you might be able to save the plant by removing the affected roots and repotting in fresh, well-draining soil.

Absolutely! Neem oil, insecticidal soap, and beneficial insects like ladybugs are all effective and safe for your indoor oasis.

Good air circulation, avoiding overwatering, and using sterilized tools are crucial for preventing fungal problems.

Isolate new plants for at least 2-4 weeks. This gives you time to observe for any signs of trouble before introducing them to your other plants.

Watering Related

Stick your finger in the soil – if the top inch feels dry, it’s time to water. You can also use a moisture meter for more accuracy.

Filtered or rainwater is ideal, but if you use tap water, let it sit out overnight to allow chlorine to evaporate.

It depends on the specific plant, the environment, and the season. Watch your plants for signs of thirst – drooping leaves or dry soil are good indicators.

Yellowing leaves and mushy stems often signal overwatering. Reduce watering and improve drainage. Wilting leaves mean your plant is thirsty – give it a good soak!

Both methods work, but bottom watering can help prevent fungal problems on the leaves. Simply place your pot in a tray of water and let it soak up what it needs.

Potting & Repotting Related

Spring or early summer is the ideal time because your plants are actively growing and can recover from any stress caused by repotting more quickly.

Terra cotta pots offer good breathability, while plastic pots retain moisture better. Choose the material that suits your plant’s specific needs and your watering habits.

Don’t give your plant too much room to grow – just go up one pot size when repotting. Too much extra soil can lead to overwatering issues.

A well-draining aroid mix is the gold standard. It usually contains a blend of peat moss, perlite, and orchid bark to provide the perfect balance of moisture retention and aeration.

It’s not ideal, as plant growth slows down in winter, making it harder for them to recover from repotting stress. But if it’s absolutely necessary, go ahead and repot gently.

General Care Related

Think warmth, humidity, and filtered light! Increase humidity with a humidifier or pebble tray, keep temps around 70-85°F, and provide bright, indirect light. You can even try misting your plants regularly to mimic rainforest showers.

Less is more in winter. Cut back on watering and fertilizing, but keep humidity up with a humidifier or pebble tray. Protect your plants from cold drafts and sudden temperature drops.

Bright, indirect light, consistent watering, and regular fertilizing during the growing season are key. Giving them a moss pole or trellis to climb can also encourage growth.

Snake plants, ZZ plants, and some Philodendrons (like Brasil or Micans) are known for their resilience. But even the toughest plants still need some love!

Overwatering is a big one, as is exposing them to cold drafts or direct sunlight. Make sure you research the specific needs of each plant to give it the best care possible.

Specific Concerns

Usually, this means the air is too dry. Boost humidity with a humidifier or pebble tray, or mist your plant regularly.

Keep the soil consistently moist (but not soggy) and provide bright, indirect light. Avoid fertilizing for a few weeks while the plant recovers.

Gently wipe them down with a damp cloth or give them a gentle shower in the sink. Avoid using harsh chemicals or shiny leaf polishes.

You can prune them to control their size or shape. Use clean, sharp scissors or pruners and cut just above a node (where a leaf attaches to the stem).

Yes! Just make sure they get bright, indirect light and aren’t exposed to extreme heat or cold. Slowly acclimate them to outdoor conditions to avoid shock.

Beyond the Basics

Consider Anthuriums, Jewel Orchids, or even carnivorous plants like Pitcher Plants!

Moss poles are a classic choice, but you can also use trellises, ladders, or even walls with hooks. Let your creativity run wild!

Absolutely! Check out online forums, social media groups, and plant-specific subreddits. There’s a whole world of plant lovers out there ready to share tips and advice.

Hang them from macrame plant hangers, arrange them on shelves, or create a stunning terrarium. The possibilities are endless!

Dive into books, documentaries, or online resources that delve into the fascinating world of rainforest plant life. There’s always something new to discover!

Whether you’re a newbie or a seasoned plant pro, we’re here to help you on your plant journey. So, come on in and let’s grow something beautiful together!

Join
For
NEWSLETTER

to stay
in the loop
on all things

philo and alocasia!